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Day 11 – S of Boulogne to Folkestone! – Wed 27 July

After not such a good night, disturbed by very garrulous noisy neighbours, we headed north towards the sea ports. We were aiming for a P & O ship as we had read that they were more sympathetically inclined towards charging cars on board. At the ticket office the official looked surprised but rang through to his colleague, who informed us that charging on board would be at the discretion of the captain and he could give no guarantee. We drove on, asked the crew’s permission and were given a blanket ‘No’. So we were faced with a problem; a fairly low energy level which would need boosting soon after we arrived in the UK. Calling at the information desk on board, I asked the reason why the captain had decided not to let us charge the car while we were sailing. The official immediately phoned the captain to ask; he said it was the first he had heard of the request, and of course we could charge the car; would we like to borrow an extension lead? Nick was down on the car deck with a crew member in a flash. Let’s hear it for David Dawson, P & O captain.

On the short channel crossing we could only manage less than an hour’s charge, so knew that we would have to find another charge soon after docking. Searching the internet by mobile phone we detected a Nissan dealer (probably not a Leaf specialist) in Folkestone. We had just enough charge to get there; fortunately the last stretch was mainly downhill. Despite not being a Leaf dealer the garage staff were delightfully welcoming and readily agreed to charge up the car for us and to keep it for a few days while we disappeared to Italy for a work assignment starting the next day.  Ours was the first real Leaf they had seen and they assured us that their colleagues would be round the car ‘like a swarm of locusts’.  So we abandoned Evie to their tender care and accepted a lift to the station from a cheery Nissan driver – who informed us that the nearest charging point was at Sainsbury’s in Hythe.

A week later we recovered Evie fully charged, having been the centre of attention at the garage, and drove back to London, stopping en route for a fast charge point at the Leaf dealer in Penge.

Day 10 – Nesles to S of Boulogne – Tues 26 July

Off to a relatively early start, around 8.30 am. First stop was Amiens, where we had identified a campsite on the edge of the town (we thought) where we hoped to charge up Evie. With some difficulty, involving a call at a nearby mairie, we found the site, in the middle of the countryside.

A luxurious site by previous standards, with its own bar and table tennis area. We were directed to a site with electrical sockets, of which one was operational. Leaving the tent to dry out in the sun we set off to visit the town in the bus. A fairly standard art gallery and tea by the river and we were back at the site to carry on our travels, with Evie semi-charged.

An overlong internet session in the bar before setting out delayed us more than intended, which meant recalculating our overnight destination. We fixed on a site further away from Calais than we wanted, in order to make sure we made it before they closed the gates for the night. As it happened we still had to make two phone calls to the proprietor (bouncing back to the UK via mobile phone) to rouse him. We put Evie on charge and pitched the tent under a tree near the exit in preparation for a quick getaway in the morning.

    electric car for city tour

Day 9  – Visit to Nissan Europe – Mon 25 July

Off to find the Nissan HQ in the industrial hinterland of Paris. Thanks to the satnav we avoided the horrors of the boulevard peripherique and identified the Nissan offices several hours before our appointment. The satnav directed us to the nearest Campanile hotel, in a shopping complex, where we spent a couple of hours on the internet in a comfortable lounge before a tasty buffet lunch. Presenting ourselves at the Nissan reception we were ushered to the waiting area and 10 minutes later informed that we had come to the wrong building. The electric car operations were now housed in a separate building 15 minutes drive away. This time the satnav was unable to get us to the final destination; it required several enquiries at nearby offices. When we finally arrived at the correct reception desk we were told that M. Bozek was in a meeting and would not be able to see us. We stood our ground, proposing to wait until the meeting was over; following a phone call to the office concerned, Mia, who had  arranged our meeting by e-mail, appeared, telling us that Ms Bozek would be down immediately. Which he was, accompanied by colleague M. Crisias. M. Bozek’s title is Manager, Zero Emissions Business Unit, and M. Crisias is Section Manager, Design, Technology and Quality Communications (based normally at the main office in Parc de Pissaloup. Both were very informative, genuinely interested in our plans, even if somewhat sceptical, and forthcoming about the difficulties facing the marketing and charging point provision for the Nissan Leaf (the two are obviously related).  We had a long list of questions, to which we got some answers, more or less as expected, no commitment to support our travels beyond the countries where Nissan already has a presence, but on the positive side a definite rapport; there is no substitute for personal contact here, as is often the case.

Points from our discussion:

• M Bozek and M Crisias told us they very much welcomed direct contact with new owners of the Leaf. Their only contact to date had been second-hand, through dealers.
• They acknowledged communication difficulties within the Leaf distribution network and appreciated that some dealers lacked sufficient information or training to be able to deal satisfactorily with owners’ queries. We told them we had not been impressed with the after-sales service provided by our dealers, both in terms of their technical expertise (very poor) or their attitude (verging on the completely negative). They took notes of this and other issues we raised.
• We showed them our connection lead with regular domestic 3-pin plug, supplied with the car in the UK. They were shocked. It is not weatherproof at all, as the Dutch dealer had told us, and thus potentially dangerous if used outside in wet weather. We had been careful to wrap the plug (+ adapter) in a plastic bag when charging outside, but were clearly running a risk. We asked the Nissan team to look into this. They claimed that this was a temporary connection system, to be refined later. We countered that we did not see why the first Leaf owners in the UK should be used as guinea pigs and put at risk in this way. The European plugs had been modified to make them weatherproof; why not the British?  – M Bozek made a note.

• On the supply of charging points they recognised a lag in the spread across the countries selling electric cars. They admitted the chicken-egg situation; public charging points will not be provided until there is sufficient demand, but there will not be an increase in demand until the network of charging points is significantly increased. Leaving it to the market will not produce enough charging points – and in the UK at least has already led to competition between providers, which works against the interests of Leaf owners who have to sign up with several different providers.  In answer to the problem we had encountered in Holland, of being faced with having to buy a connecting plug for the sockets there costing 500 euros, they recommended that we did make this purchase, assuring us that this 5-pin plug had been adopted in France and likely to be in Germany, along with other countries in the EU. Reluctance to sign up to a standardised system of charging points in the EU could be put down to political protectionism of the car industry. In Germany electric cars were still in prototype, in Italy they have gone for gas-powered vehicles; neither government is interested in supporting another’s car industry. An additional point of debate is the type of charging point to go for; the really fast chargers give an 80% charge in 30 minutes, but cost around £25,000 to install, thus there are only 3 in the Netherlands, 11 in the UK at present (all in Nissan Leaf dealer garages so open working hours only). Service stations might perhaps proved medium-term chargers (6-8hrs?) but what would happen if there was a queue when you turned up?
• However we were assured that the various electric car suppliers were collaborating with  each other to ensure that the charging points were compatible for all electric cars in current production.

• On travelling to countries outside the Nissan dealer range, they warned us that the car had not been road-tested beyond the countries in which it was being sold. We asked about heavy duty tyres, a puncture being  the  most likely repair needed; they thought this might be possible but didn’t have any information.
• Recovery of the Leaf, should it break down in any major way, would not be simple, since they could not promise any garages capable of dealing with the complex electronics under the bonnet. (of course this is true to a degree of all modern cars). The free pick-up service to take to the next electricity source which is offered to Leaf owners for a year would clearly not apply to countries outside the Nissan zone. But getting the Leaf on a breakdown lorry to be transported would remain a possibility.
• We asked how long the batteries were likely to last. The reply was that there would be no problem for the journey we planned; estimated battery life was around 5 years.
• Among the countries we plan to visit they were surprised to find Japan missing. They were both very positive about the country and culture and said Nissan would be much more interested in our trip should we include Japan in the itinerary (interesting idea).
• The Leaf is more widely known in the US, with its HQ there in Tennessee. They suggested we might do the trip from west to east instead of the other way round, starting in N America.
• There are some peculiarities about the satnav system, particularly the ‘shortest’ and ‘fastest’ routes which do not tally with the actual distances between places. We hope that this will be clarified when we finally get signed up to the ‘carwings’ system, but are not impressed with the failure of anyone at Nissan to explain to us how to join.
• We  mentioned the lack of visible branding as an electric vehicle. The tiny “zero emissions” plaque on the back of the car cannot be seen until you are right close up to the car. This means vehicles travelling behind can get frustrated, assuming one is driving  slowly just to annoy others. While appreciating that Nissan’s priority was to make the Leaf to look as much like a ‘normal’ car as possible, in fact advertising its Green energy aspect would in our view be more positive, We asked for Nissan banners on the car; a note waThe charming Nissan executives gave us their cards and we unplugged Evie from their fast charging point. (It was linked up to a prototype Leaf which is not yet for sale in France) We drove back to the campsite where we had decided to spend an extra night.

Day 8  – Attiche to Nesles-la-Vallee – Sun 24 July

Off again to head for the outskirts of Paris so that we would be sure of making the afternoon rendezvous with the Nissan HQ team the day after. Inviting campsites were few and far between in this area; we identified one at Nesles-la-Vallee at 30K from the Nissan base. Finding it was not simple and we were grateful for a sign – which however did not indicate how far from the town the site was; at the end of a farm track through corn fields and on the edge of a large wood. Laid-back proprietor of a certain age and girth welcomed us and offered a choice of powered sites. He registered a nonchalant interest in Evie and told us that the frenetic pace of modern life was forgotten here; the only people who had any difficulty enjoying the peaceful surroundings were those who had problems in their own heads. Neighbouring mobile homes were uninhabited and gathering moss; the only noise interrupting our slumbers was the very loud dawn chorus. Walking back into the village to buy provisions for supper we saw deer at the edge of the wood. “The Moroccan” in charge of the epicerie was open on Sunday and left watching the end of the Tour de France on TV to serve us. Back at the campsite we made use of the additional sockets to charge the laptop, mobile phones and Kindles. Evie was soon charged and ready for setting out early the next morning.

Day 7 – Le Chêslé to Attiche – Sat 23 July

Setting off quickly while we had a full charge, first stop was a café in Cerfontaine. The rain was steady but the coffee and croissants from the boulangerie delicious. Next destination was Laon, for recharging. At the campsite we were offered a charging point and set Evie up, making sure that the leads were encased in plastic bags for waterproofing. We then headed into town, still in pouring rain. We took advantage of a local bus service and spent five hours visiting the cathedral and walking the walls as well as catching up on the progress of the Tour de France over lunch. Walking back to the campsite we were offered a lift for the last stretch by our former bus driver. Off to the next campsite identified on our map for the night, at Attiche. This was listed as a’ municipal’ site but was actually in the garden of a house by a charming lake in a small village. The proprietor greeted us in an office full of brightly coloured birds in cages; ‘diamants de Goude’ apparently. Her only question: “ How many baguettes would you like tomorrow morning?”. After overnight charging we breakfasted on fresh baguette watching the 86 ducks and geese being fed by la patronne.

We were ready to leave, fully charged at a cost of 3 euros, around 8.45 the next morning. No time to prepare food, as we had to take advantage of the charge and  so planned to stop in Maastricht for a late breakfast. We found a multi-storey car park from which we could walk to the market in the central town square. A huge market, which was aiming for the best market in Holland; it was certainly the largest we had ever seen. Coffee over we headed off again, this time for a campsite advertised as offering a vast range of activities. A large painted sign announced ”’Hirondelle” which seemed to have taken over a massive chateau/farm.  At the busy reception desk manned partly by students we were asked to wait for the supervisor; when she appeared she readily offered the use of a socket in the office. So we parked outside and ran the lead through a French window they opened specially for us. We then took advantage of the internet access in the office area  and took turns to sally forth into the chateau/restaurant, where a charming North African served us tea under imposing eighteenth century paintings. Outside mobile homes galore and fun activities for children would have astounded the original inhabitants with their soutanes and serious countenances.

After 5 hours charging, for  5 euros, we were on our way again.  Realising we would not have enough charge to make the campsite we had chosen, we stopped en route at a likely-looking café. The patron was happy for us to charge up while we stopped for a non-alcoholic drink; he even went to check in the extension being built on to the café to see if there was an electricity supply yet which we could use, as that would have been less obtrusive. In the end we ran a cable through the front door of the café, provoking considerable interest from the clients. Enquiring if we could get supper anywhere nearby we were recommended to try the restaurant across the road. Clearly with a good reputation, we would have needed a reservation but when the situation was explained the owner readily offered to bring our trout and chips over so that we could stay with the car. Meanwhile the  girl being trained as a bartender came out to look; “C’est chouette” was her comment. We headed for an overnight campsite, Le Chêslé outside. A very attractive site with a large grassy area in the centre for games.  The manageress led us to an electricity socket where she read the meter before allowing us to connect Evie. In fact the charge for the night worked out at 3 euros 50; it was reassuring to have confirmation that with a 6 amp supply the same price would apply for a full charge. It was also encouraging that we were not asked for a deposit for the electricity, unlike the 40 euro deposit for the use of the showers.

Day 5 – Tienhoven to Maastricht – Thursday 21 July

Left Utrecht around 9.30 fully charged for trip to Geleen, where Nick’s nephew lives. We know we would have to stop to recharge en route, so had researched a campsite in Weert, about 2 hours into our journey. Some way off the direct route the road led past a cement factory but then into a rather grand mobile home park.  Parking outside we ventured in to the café and asked the waitress/manageress if we could charge up the car during the day. She readily agreed and suggested we park outside the kitchens and link up to the power socket there. Glimpsing an inviting pool Nick somewhat cheekily asked if we could have a swim. “Bien sur” so we hooked up and changed hurriedly to get in a delicious dip in an empty pool before the heavens opened, Evie charged up undeterred  in the thunderstorm – we checked several times but our plastic bag covering the flex connection and plastic box over the main battery charger kept the necessary sections dry. We passed the time comfortably drinking hot chocolate and explained the system to the curious manageress. The leisure park was almost deserted; the weather had apparently been poor for most of the month. This may have contributed to our warm reception.

After 5 hours Evie was about two-thirds charged and we left for the next destination, the campsite at  Hoeve de Gastmolen , near Maastricht. We had arranged to meet up with Nick’s nephew for dinner so the pressure was on when the charge was running out. We just made it with 9 miles to spare and the satnav telling us we might not reach our destination. The campsite manager was interested in Evie; a friend was also about to purchase an electric car and had a large map on the wall of his office with 160km radius from his home drawn on it, all ready to plan his journeys. The need to park near an electrical socket meant that we had to squeeze in between a caravan and a tent. The caravan owner was interested in our car but warned us about the noise we might expect from the dogs in the tent. Their owners in turn assured us that the dogs would be quiet at night. Great to be able to glide up to our space with no noise at all! A pleasant campsite in a rural situation meant that we had to order a taxi to get back in to the town for our meeting.  Returning to the site we continued to leave Evie on charge all night.

Day 4 – Rest day – July 20

Utrecht old town

Day 3 – Hook of Holland to Tienhoven – Wednesday 19 July

After a comfortable night on the Stena Hollandisca disembarked at 8 am. Although we were at the back of the line we were waved out first to exit via the lorry lane. Headed for the motorway and drove for an hour and a half then stopped off at a motorway pull-in.  The polite young man at the reception desk suggested we drive round to the truckers’ section to charge up from a socket there. He went round to meet us and no-one batted an eyelid as we ran our flex out of the door to the car. We sat outside in the sun to drink our coffee; an interested driver wanted to know more about Evie. About 2 hours later we had sufficient charge for the next stage, so I offered to pay for the electricity. The young man suggested 10 euros; I asked if he knew how much a full charge would cost he didn’t know. I told him it would be around 3 euros. “Forget it, then” he said.

Tienhoven, near Utrecht

On to Nick’s brother’s house outside Utrecht, where we put Evie on charge using the outdoor socket. When we had enquired about charging in Holland we discovered that a company called e-laan had set up a network of charging points. We had tried to subscribe but been told that it would take 10 days to process our form completed on the internet. When we phoned them today they promised to send a temporary card to arrive the next day. NB on the website the cost of membership is listed as 100 euros, but membership is in fact free until 2014. BUT we then found out that a special 5-pin connection is needed to link up to the e-laan stations. A visit to the nearest Nissan dealer outside Amsterdam confirmed this, and the price of the equipment – 500 euros. The dealer assured us that this system was operating already at many electric stations in France and Germany and that would probably be adopted more widely.  Reluctant to pay out so much for a lead and plug we asked if we might find any charging points which would take a normal domestic connection. The salesman said that there were a number of charging points for electric motor bikes which would use this connection. We showed him our British connecting equipment and he was shocked to see that the plug was not weatherproof. The continental version he sells is properly designed to be as waterproof as possible. (NB point to make to the technical director when we meet on Monday.) He was happy to sell us one of these – for 800 euros. We declined saying we would keep to our plug with an adapter. We took advantage of the quick charge machine at this Nissan dealer to charge up 80% in 30 minutes. This is one of three in the whole country, all situated in Nissan dealers.

Day 2 – Welwyn to Harwich – Tuesday 18 July

We headed for Epping, where we charged up for 2 hrs over a sandwich lunch break.
Then on to a camp site we had identified near Harwich, conveniently situated in the grounds of a pub. We found the campsite manager in the bar; he was happy to let us charge up Evie (the name derived from electric vehicle and we feel a feminine personality), choosing any electric socket we liked. We then went for walk on the Stour estuary nearby, in the company of oyster catchers and a curlew, admiring the translucent light effects over the water. On our way back we walked over a camomile lawn at the edge of a field of oats, and passed sleek black pigs in a sty, and then a free range family snuffling in the grass. During a light rain shower we had supper in the friendly, unpretentious pub while waiting to get as much charge as possible into Evie.
After 5 hours we had 70 miles on the dial and set off for Harwich, where we were an hour early for the 22. 45 check-in. We asked at the check-in booth if we could charge on the boat; the ground staff radioed to the loading crew and told us to put on warning lights so they would identify us. The first crew member we met however said ‘no’ to charging; a younger colleague said he would discuss with captain, since charging would be at the latter’s discretion. The captain then arrived and perfectly reasonably said that the policy was under review, because of the fire incident, and until a decision was reached he couldn’t allow us to charge while the boat was at sea. We then asked if we could charge up while waiting to leave, which he readily agreed to. So put Evie on charge at the back of the car line where there was a convenient socket. The lead to the bonnet attracted the attention of several crew members